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look #1
jewelry: pearl-centric, two earrings but no necklace
make this clearly a "real" person with makeup/jewelry signifyers
-print: one of two outfits with full digital print
show is bookended by only "real" outfits with only "real" people, the middle section is an invented and curated friend group
loose narrative structure for whole show: the friend group
symbol of transition: switching schools, location, and style (and more)
lucy dolan-zalaznick
look #2
pearl mask!!!!
title shirt->
polaroid slot on back of skirt
mask: completely covers the face, how does it make the person anonymous and also instantly recognizable?
show title: sleeping with pearls on , my neck is green
there's a complete commitment involved, sleeping with pearls on is fully embracing and reinforcing the image the pearls project. the green neck is the stakes. there is consequence to the constant reliance on fashion to express identity
inspiration: i made myself a pearl necklace from a jar of fake pearls i found at school, my neck turned green so fast
declan finn
look #3
mock neck collar->
slanted side seams->
​
sequencing: this outfit comes right after the pearl mask, arguably the most complicated piece in the whole show. the simplicity of this outfit is a contrast to that. i like setting up contradictions that aren't even contradcitions. the shirt and skirt from the outfit before this are probably actually simpler than this outfit, but that's not what it seems like. plus there's a shared color scheme, so they're really not that different at all.
all black: classic, simple
t-shirt+pants combo: classic, simple
there are only small changes made to the standard t-shirt + pants outfit, to 1) highlight the importance of small design choices and 2) encourage editing of existing things to make them better
johnny vudoe
look #4
long t shirt w/ belt to make it shaped more like a dress ->
androgyny: within the fashion industry it exists as trend, usually looking like menswear styles that are rebranded as "androgynous". actual gender neutrality should pull from both "masculine" and "feminine" styles as well as completely new shapes to make something new and ungendered
redefine: a t-shirt is textbook casual-wear, making a small change to pull it out of that category is fun
vivi tonin
look #5
camp collar shirt->
cropped->
blazer wrapped from shoulder around torso->
i like leaning into popular style stuff and switching it up a little bit. this time its formalwear, taking the black suit+white shirt and cropping the shirt and kinda destroying the blazer's functional purpose. queering the uniforms of historically non-queer spaces
josh blackstone
look #6
negative space: concept mostly used in painting, drawing, etc. exploring it within fashion is fun because the line of what is negative space vs. not is much blurrier. is the negative space the blank white tank top or is the cut out that exposes the torso? is the "canvas" the body or the clothes?
styling: there could be no pearls in this whole black/white section except for the pearl mask - would that make look #2 the pearl spokesman?
<-tank top with cut out
charlie rotshchild
look #7
straps get tucked under dress->
more leaning into knee jerk associations but then going against them - when u see a white dress u often jump to wedding dress
wedding dresses are known for their complexity, this is really simple
putting this "wedding dress" on a male model is also hopefully complicating of the wedding dress idea
lucas scott
look #8
scribble graphic->
this outfit started from wanting to have a male model wear a knee length skirt. i finished the skirt before i knew what the rest of the outfit would look like. that's not how my process usually goes, so i included the scribble graphic as a nod to the different process (see syd callahan outfit for more info)
teddy benchley
look #9
polaroids on breast of blazer->
polaroids: contextually they feel like tokens of friendship - obviously tied to the whole big friend group idea, also tethers that imaginary group idea to reality a little bit as these are real pictures of real friends. all my friends are runway models!!
gender neutrality: color makes the outfit feel
like a set, but there usually are not blazer/skirt
combos.
will bousquette
look #10
hand-embroidered graphic in white thread on white shirt ->
naturally dyed bandanas attached to belt loops->
sequencing: this is a transitional outfit, it bridges the gap from the black/white section to the orange/pink. also transitional with the hand motif (see right) where the black/white section feels more formal and the orange/pink is more my own shit. the hands are about to work for themselves
hand graphic: the last show had a lot of eyes, which I was using to explore the perception part of fashion, what people think when they see certain clothes + the connections they make to the wearer's personality. that very subjective process is scary to me. my clothes are only as cool as other people think they are. the hand is a response to that, i am trying to regain tactical control back over my clothes. the process of hand-embroidering is also very personal, making this feel even more like my own. i do still feel like i am losing the perception battle, i need to sell clothes to keep making clothes. that's why the hand is the same color as the shirt, i want to have full control over the art i make and sell but sometimes u cant tell.
bandanas: inspo came from a picture of a$ap nast where it looked like two bandanas hanging from his pants, but after i looked harder i realized that wasn't what was happening. a lot of my inspiration for shapes comes from miss-seeing things
jay cinema
look #11
pants: pants are my #1 favorite thing i just really like pants. last show i did a bunch of pants-altering but i didnt make anything from scratch. this time i will be, very excited to have full control over shapes and finishing details
contrast: there was a little color in the last outfit, but this is the first super colorful outfit after the long black/white section
naqi smith
look #12
scribble graphic->
runway structure: this was originally the only orange/pink outfit and it barely got by the first round of cuts. it does work as a stand alone outfit, but it gets so much stronger when contextually surrounded with the rest of this section, it makes it feel much more emotional to me which is hopefully telling of a stronger overall structure in this show than last time
mark engel
look #13
red collar->
orange/pink gradient->
gradient: sunset-like, the goal is to recreate the feeling from the last section of the nobles video and the aww(zaza) video where the alchemist and mike are respectively looking into a orange/pink sunset as the song ends. ryosuke tanzawa!!!!
joe murphy
look #14
red collar->
orange/pink gradient->
same concept as last outfit but its shape is edited a little, makes it feel much different
shirt makes this feel almost like a biker's outfit - the image of biking into this orange/pink sunset with bigger than life music playing is exactly what the goal is to recreate emotionally
gabrielle waller-whelan
look #15
sequencing: transitional outfit - moving from the orange/pink to brown
there's definitely less conceptual backing for this outfit than a lot of the others - it is here because it looks cool. fashion is about looking cool! design for the sake of design.
alexandra johnson
look #16
dickie collar->
scriblbe graphic->
scribble graphic: the scribble was originally a place holder for a later graphic, i decided to use the scribble as the graphic itself to 1) save as an acknowledgement of process and 2) continue my move away from dense graphics and focus more on shape+color
process: the scribble usually marks some sort of alternative process. this outfit is different in that i wont be able to make it until the last minute because the model is my 11 year old sister who outgrew her outfit three times last show. my most problematic model.
collar->pants: the collar under the shirt matches with the pants so it feels like there's continuation between them, like under the brown shirt the collar and the pants are connected. not only are they not actually physically connected, but there isn't even another shirt under the brown shirt, it's just the cream collar sewn into the brown shirt
syd callahan
look #17
vest over hoodie->
something about this outfit feels more mainstream cool, probably a little bit more in the straight-o-sphere than most of the other designs. i felt like doing that sorta out of spite. i am very spiteful.
ben gottlieb
look #18
dickie collar under camp collar->
pearl arrow->
similar to the syd outfit where there's a faked continuation from collar to pants
pearl arrow: the first thing people look at it in an outfit is usually the top then you drift down to the pants, the arrow both follows that line of sight and highlights the pants (i love pants sm)
karem hashem
look #19
real tree camo->
im gonna mess around with draping for this one, i usually try and force fabrics to work like i want them to, for this i'll go wherever it takes me
real tree camo: usually used for hunting, i like the idea of "feminizing" it
myeh medina
look #20
real tree camo->
pants!!!! these might be the most exciting pair for me, i love brown baggy pants these r so cool
tight shirt+big pants: when i pull this out of the personal wardrobe is when i get called gay the most. i like referencing personal homophobia in impersonal ways,
misha gelman
look #21
split t-shirt ->
i love big shirts tucked into big pants
having the colors next to each other feels like comparing swatches, these r 2 of my favorite colors in the show so it feels fitting. if i had to narrow down my wardrobe to 2 colors it'd be these 2 (maybe idk)
xavier henderson
look #22
camp collar + color scheme feels almost uniform like, the skirt undercuts that. i like fucking around with uniforms, im gonna wear the uniform i made for this show when i do the thank u clap thing at the end. i wish i could make a 100 of those shirts and give them all to my friends
<- grey band under the skirt + shirt
wenhao cai
look #23
vest edited to be more of a puffer->
color! v cool
this might be my favorite outfit its between this, the jeremy one, and the emma one. idek what it is about this one but that color with the vest+skirt combo is just different i love it sm. (sidenote its crazy that my top 3 fits dont have pants)
zion billey
look #24
more of me being spiteful, this time to traditional men's suiting. 1) there's never skirts and 2) i cant really envision white suits that dont have black shirts under them
the white + generally formal + skirt combo also makes this feel wedding dress like, again on a male model
sam wade
look #25
lace on hoodie>
lace on skirt too->
lace mask->
lace: lace is usually connected to sex appeal, so i added it to clothes that make me feel sexy. i like hoodies and skirts. especially combined they make me feel more confident.
mask + model: this is my outfit, i want to wear the mask to put a separation between me as a person and as a designer, hopefully encouraging that the designer's personality matters less than the designer's clothes. "you can do it too" - virgil abloh
caleb callahan
look #26
work graphic on
front, drift on back->
skirt/shorts hybrid->
work/drift: i hate the importance of work ethic, if it was up to me i would just drift around and worked whenever i felt like it (rarerly)
craig muir
look #27
windbreaker->
lace over pants->
lace->confidence nod: the winbreaker + big pants + hoop earrings fit is so cool i feel so cool wearing it, the lace is a marker for that
g3mst0n3
look #28
work/drift logo->
skirt/pants hybrid->
doubling down on the work/drift logo makes it feel more like a uniform. my lean towards uniform definitely came from those green button ups virgil + the rest of the team wore at lv ss20
elijah bank$y
look #29
dickie collar->
scribble graphic->
polaroids->
scribble graphic/process: i came up with the next outfit (emma) before this one. i was forcing that color blue so emma's outfit didnt stand out too much. i knew that the blue would make this outfit a transition outfit, so i looked back into the other drawings for themes i could duplicate. i picked syd's outfit which is cloned here but in different colors - there is also a model connection between syd and chase as they are my siblings. how many other runway model families do u know??
chase callahan
look #30
mock neck collar->
half pleated skirt->
these last three outfits r really just a victory lap, i wanted to just talk my shit and this is one of the coolest things i could draw up
emma fusco
look #31
printed tie>
bandana/head scarf w/ same graphic as tie ->
really the same thing as the last outfit, this is just cool as shit
dale dolan-zalaznick
look #32
headscarf->
crt tv graphic->
closing outfit: emotional climax, return to the full digital print graphic from first outfit. lot of the core of the video work i do is in this outfit, it feels like a home video where its really focused on the people while theres also this awareness of the moment ending soon because why else would u record it. i wanted this outfit to match the big finale i have planned for the music + video
jeremy jarecki
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